When you are shopping for fabric, two of the most common categories you will come across are jersey and woven. Both can be printed, both come in a huge range of colours and patterns, and both have their devoted fans in the sewing community. But they are fundamentally different materials, and using the wrong one for a project can mean a garment that pulls, gapes, or simply does not behave the way you imagined. Understanding the difference between jersey and woven fabric is one of the most useful things a home sewer or maker can do.
What makes jersey fabric different?
Jersey is a knit fabric, which means the yarn loops together in interlocking rows rather than being woven at right angles. That loop structure is what gives jersey its signature stretch. Most jersey fabrics will stretch both across the grain and, to a lesser degree, along the length. A good quality jersey also has recovery, meaning it bounces back to its original shape after being stretched. This is why it is the go-to fabric for fitted garments like leggings, T-shirts, swimwear, and baby clothes. The fabric moves with the body rather than resisting it.
Digital printed jersey is particularly popular for activewear and children's wear because the print wraps around curves without distorting, and the fabric stays comfortable against the skin during movement. The cut edges of jersey do not fray, which simplifies construction, though they can curl if not handled carefully. You will typically need a stretch stitch, a serger, or a coverstitch machine to sew jersey well so the seams stretch along with the fabric rather than snapping thread when the garment is worn.
What defines a woven fabric?
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of threads at right angles: the warp (running lengthwise) and the weft (running crosswise). The result is a stable, structured fabric that has very little inherent stretch, except on the bias (a 45-degree diagonal). Cotton poplin, quilting cotton, linen, denim, and chiffon are all woven fabrics despite looking and feeling very different from one another.
Because woven fabric does not stretch, it holds its shape well and is well suited to structured garments like shirts, skirts, jackets, and home wares such as cushion covers and table runners. Cut edges of woven fabric will fray, so finishing seams is an important step in construction. On the upside, woven fabrics are generally easier to cut accurately and press neatly, which makes them a favourite for quilting and more tailored sewing projects.
How does digital printing behave on each fabric?
Digital printing works beautifully on both jersey and woven fabric, but the results feel and look a little different depending on the base cloth. On jersey, the ink sits within the loops of the knit structure, giving the print a soft hand feel that stays stretchy. This means the design will elongate slightly when the fabric is pulled, which is worth considering for designs with fine text or very precise geometric shapes.
On woven fabric, the stable structure means the print stays true to the original artwork with no distortion at all. Colours can appear slightly more saturated on a tight-woven base like cotton poplin compared to a jersey, because the surface is smoother and more even. For quilting projects or crafts where colour accuracy and crispness really matter, a woven digital print is often the better choice.
Durability and care
Both fabric types can be highly durable when they are good quality, but they do have different wear characteristics. Jersey, particularly cotton jersey, can develop pilling over time with heavy washing, and lower-quality jersey can lose its recovery and go saggy after repeated stretching. A well-constructed jersey garment sewn with appropriate seams, however, will hold up to years of daily wear and washing.
Woven fabrics tend to resist pilling and maintain their shape without needing elastic recovery. They can be more prone to wrinkling depending on the fibre content, and they may shrink more dramatically if not pre-washed before cutting. As a general rule, pre-washing any fabric before you sew is a good habit regardless of type, and it is especially important if you are mixing fabrics in a single project.
Choosing the right one for your project
The simplest way to decide between jersey and woven is to think about how the finished item needs to behave. If it needs to stretch and move with a body (activewear, swimwear, base layers, fitted kids' clothing), reach for a jersey. If it needs to hold its shape, hang with structure, or lie flat (quilts, bags, tailored tops, home décor), a woven is almost always the better choice.
It is also worth considering your sewing setup. If you are new to sewing and working with a standard sewing machine, woven fabrics are generally more forgiving to learn on. Jersey rewards makers who have a stretch stitch or an overlocker at their disposal. Neither fabric is harder than the other once you understand its nature. They simply call for different techniques and a little planning before you start.
At Fabric by TrishaMakes, both jersey and woven fabrics are available as digitally printed preorders and ready-to-ship stock, so you can choose the base cloth that suits your next project and get a print you will not find anywhere else.