A fabric sunglass case with a magnetic snap closure is a small, satisfying project that takes under an hour, uses just two fat quarters of fabric, and makes a genuinely useful gift or market table staple. It's a step up from a basic slip-in pouch, and the magnetic snap gives it a professional finish that buyers notice immediately.
What you'll need
Gather these materials before you cut a single piece:
- Two coordinating fabric pieces, each at least 20 cm × 40 cm (outer and lining)
- One piece of medium-weight fusible fleece or foam stabiliser, same size
- One 18 mm magnetic snap set
- Thread to match your outer fabric
- A fabric marker and ruler
- Scissors or a rotary cutter and mat
Printed fabric from Fabric by TrishaMakes works beautifully here because the digital prints stay sharp and vivid even when cut into small pieces. Bold coordinates or a novelty print paired with a solid lining is the classic combination.
Cutting and preparing your pieces
Cut all three layers (outer, lining, and fleece) to 18 cm × 38 cm. That size accommodates most standard sunglasses frames, including larger square styles, without the case becoming bulky in a bag.
Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of your outer fabric following the manufacturer's instructions. Press firmly and let it cool before moving on. This step is what gives the case its padded, protective feel. Don't rush it.
Mark the snap placement on the right side of the outer fabric. Place the first snap half 3 cm down from one short edge, centred on the width. Mark the lining piece to match. If you're new to installing magnetic snaps, the method is straightforward: use a seam ripper or awl to pierce two small holes through the fabric and fleece at the marks, push the snap prongs through, place the washer on the back, and fold the prongs flat. The fabric glasses case tutorial on this site covers snap installation with helpful detail if you want a visual guide before you start.
Assembling the case
Once both snap halves are installed, place the outer and lining pieces right sides together. Pin along all four edges. Sew around the perimeter with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving a 7 cm gap along one long edge for turning.
Clip the four corners close to the stitching line. This removes bulk and makes clean, square corners when the case is turned right side out. Turn slowly and use a blunt tool (a chopstick works perfectly) to push each corner out fully. Press the whole piece flat, folding in the seam allowance at the gap as you go.
Slip stitch the gap closed by hand, or run a 2 mm topstitch along the entire perimeter if you prefer a more structured look. Either finishes neatly.
Folding and closing the case
Fold the finished rectangle in thirds, lining side in, so the magnetic snap halves meet. The case naturally wants to fold this way once the snap is in the right position. Press the fold lines lightly to set them.
Topstitch along both short folded edges to hold the pocket shape, sewing through all layers from the outer side. Use a 3 mm stitch length here. These two lines of stitching are what transform a flat rectangle into a shaped case, so stitch slowly and keep the lines straight.
Your case should now open flat from the magnetic closure, with a snug pocket below that holds the glasses securely. The padded fleece layer protects lenses from scratches without adding significant bulk.
Tips for making it sell at markets
Fabric choice drives impulse purchases at a market stall. Bright digitally printed outer fabric with a neutral or tonal lining sells consistently, as does a novelty or character print paired with a coordinating solid. Keep a stack of 3 to 4 colourways on display and arrange them by colour family. Buyers frequently pick up two.
Pricing this case correctly matters. Factor in fabric, the magnetic snap hardware, thread, and your time. If you're selling at markets alongside other small accessories, consider the advice in the best fabric projects for market stall vendors guide for how to structure your product mix and hit the right price points.
Making these in batches of 6 to 8 at a time cuts your per-unit time significantly. Cut all pieces in one session, install all snaps in another, then sew the whole batch through assembly together. You'll finish the first case in about 50 minutes; by the eighth, you'll be under 20.
Variations worth trying
Once you're confident with the basic method, there are a few easy variations that expand the design. A wrist strap looped and sewn into one short end before assembly turns the case into a compact clutch for a walk or festival. Swapping the magnetic snap for a wooden button and loop closure gives a more handmade, artisan look that suits cottagecore or botanical print fabrics particularly well. A wider cut of 22 cm × 44 cm accommodates oversized frames and works as a small tablet sleeve too.
The case also makes a brilliant scrap-buster. Any piece with at least 20 cm of usable width can become an outer panel. Keep a dedicated scrap bin for cuts in that range and you'll always have material ready for a quick session between bigger projects.